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 Post subject: Move Controller Glove
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:19 am 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 721
Location: Florida USA
...

This is the prototype of using only the essential parts inside a Move Controller, the board, the battery, and the small rubber grommet that covered the PS button on the board.

I wrapped the board with electrical tape first, leaving the red LED visible, then taped the battery to the board between the LED and the PS button, fit perfectly.

I used 2 small black zip ties to solidly affix it to the glove, it can stay permanently attached and be charged through the USB port.

I fully tested a 6 cam PS Eyes recording, from calibrating the Move as it laid flat on the table, that worked fine, then recorded the motions as I would use it normally and with very fast and extreme motions and it worked fine as it should remaining securely in position.

Position aligned correctly as I normally do once in Studio v3, and all the data applied correctly after tracked.

I was later going to run the battery wires longer to a strap above the wrist, but the weighting with it attached to the board was fairly centered and will be ok and save on wire issues later.

I am sure this could also be done with same method for attaching to a tightly fitting knit cap, and can probably just zip tie the battery off the board to the cap to get a lower profile look and better weight distribution.

I rounded the sharp corners on the top of the board to minimize snagging on clothing.

Pictures of what I did so far:


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Last edited by Snapz on Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:13 am, edited 5 times in total.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:20 am 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 721
Location: Florida USA
...

Couple more pics:

Not shown, but I use black sports tape around the wrist of these gloves to stop sliding issues.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:16 am 

Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:34 pm
Posts: 2215
Location: Los Angeles
Impressive! That's definitely slimmer than what I've seen other users doing with their Moves for gloves. Watching closely so keep posting! :)

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 11:04 am 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 721
Location: Florida USA
...

Yeah, actually worked out better than I thought when first started, the board is a good thickness not to bend much at all, which was my worry, and actually just through the tape it is possible to depress the little micro switch Start nub, which is mounted to the board securely, but I am sure it could be made easier accessible, since it is only needed on one of the Moves.

I think I am going to wrap the board and battery up in that cloth-like sports tape, but electrical tape was easier for now.

I don't use a head controller, but I think this way would solve the need for heavier head gear to be worn, I just have no need to test it that way.

I will post a tracked recording later, to demonstrate they work fine.

...


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 6:08 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 721
Location: Florida USA
...

Final product: Cloth sports tape worked much better and removed rubber grommet for PS button, wasn't really needed after all, can still depress it fine.

I did run strips of electrical tape over the circuitry before wrapping it, to prevent any body moisture from accessing the board.

...


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 1:24 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 721
Location: Florida USA
...

An update on the glove:

So far it's working great, liking the light slim profile now.

Added 2 additional things, cut a strip of plastic from a plastic bottle in the shape of the board with 2 ears to tuck under the zip ties as extra barrier for any moisture and I cut the 1 1/2 cloth tape in 3/4 in. strips and cross wrapped around the front of the board, across the palm of the glove and around the back of the board for more stabilization and can also be adjusted for a tighter fit on smaller female hands and still be able to put on and remove the gloves easily.

Works much better than bulky plastic housings mounted on back of hand, or even held in palms, much lighter, fully free fingers and wrist rotations, and small Start micro switch can still be pressed if needed.

Also put a small piece of white tape on the front and rear to make them easier to see for easier alignment in the studio.

Overall a success in my opinion.

I don't use a Move on the head, but would interested to see someone do something similar for head mounting it to a tight fitting knit cap or a cloth head wrap would work too, one that can be tied tight around head, it would give much more freedom of movement, lighter and no heavy, awkward head gear needed.

...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 2:26 pm 

Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2014 9:16 am
Posts: 101
I successfully tore the guts out of one of my Moves. Do I need the headlight? Looks like I need everything else from your photos. Need to look into the materials you mentioned. I hope it works. In principal, I think it's brilliant!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 2:43 pm 

Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:34 pm
Posts: 2215
Location: Los Angeles
Another user had done just that (stripped a Move controller to bare bones) a few years go, and said it worked fine. The pics have been removed but the original explanations can still be found here:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6836&p=13600&hilit=glove#p13600

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 4:00 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 721
Location: Florida USA
...

No, don't need anything but the board itself, wiggle the wires until the connections pop off on all extra wires that connect to the board.

Remove plastic battery holder, I guess you could reuse the holder, I just didn't, and all components attached with it and remove the top of the mini USB port connector.

All you want when done is the board and the battery and it's connection wires.

When you are wrapping it all back together, the battery fits exactly between the power LED and the blister where the PS button touched, (position it so wires are easily taped when wrapped), make sure not to obscure that blister button when taping it all up, you need to press that blister to turn on and off and make access in the taping to be able to see the LED to know its on or off.

There are protrusions where connectors were on the bottom of the board, so you need to finagle the taping to make it clean looking when done, but not a big issue.

The link stated above isn't for stripped moves, just states attaching them to top of a glove as a full unit, which could be done also, but still just as bulky.

I also don't recommend work out style gloves with fingers cut out, it could throw off the hand tracking, use light weight full fingered nylon gloves, or similar, so they breathe well.

I also rounded the front and back sharp corners of the board with a bench grinder, but you could use a hand file just as well, or not do that at all.

You could use self adhesive velcro pads on the glove and bottom of the board first, instead of the zip ties, but you will still need to cross wrap cloth tape across the palms and around each end of the controller to keep them as stable on the hand as possible, you don't want them wiggly at all when on hands.

...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 4:34 pm 

Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:34 pm
Posts: 2215
Location: Los Angeles
Actually, his setup was a stripped down Move with the housing removed, which was then sewn into a glove. From what I recall, it resembled what you did.

My version (also mentioned in that thread) mounted the intact Move on a foam riser block sewn into the back of the glove. This worked well too...the riser prevented the Move from hitting the forearm when the wrist was bent back, so I still have full wrist movement.

But yes, my version was definitely more bulky. At the time, I just really didn't want to disassemble the things. :)

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Artist/Partner - Little Green Dog | Demo Reel (2017) | Demo Reel (2015) | Demo Reel (2013)

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Last edited by Greenlaw on Fri Mar 17, 2017 5:10 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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