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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 11:22 am 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 718
Location: Florida USA

If you are going to capture 2 or 3 performers at the same time, 8 or more cameras will most likely be needed, especially if actions are in very close proximity to each other, 6 cams will do ok if actions are not very close in most cases.

(Remember each performer needs to wear different colors)

A head mounted Move works better for slower actions where the performers head doesn't move much, slower and more consistently moving. (jumps, bounces, rolls may not work as well)

It doesn't work as well for fast actions, like fighting, or dancing, as unless it is very stable mounted on the head, it can bounce, or move without notice and throw off the whole recording, as the data is captured during the recording, and if this changes a lot during performance, it will show in the tracking also and cause more clean up, or possibly a complete loss of usable tracking unless manually edit the head in post, not fun.

If you don't use a Move on the head, you should keep any performers hair, high collars, or anything from blocking the back of the neck, this will greatly help in the tracking process with PS Eyes, or the neck bone can and probably will not follow the video well at all and cause issues.

It basically takes 3 cameras minimum always being able to see all body parts for better results in tracking, but the tracking view port only uses one camera at a time to track, so it is possible and you may have to switch the cam view at times if you loose tracking, but then always try to switch to a main tracking camera, a head on camera works best, it doesn't matter what camera number it is.

Also only one camera can detect and use the colors, (so if you switch cams during tracking you may need to re-evaluate the actor colors if getting bad tracking and re-evaluate again when switch back to main cam), this would be based solely on your particular light set up, why it is best to have consistent ambient lighting set up, doesn't need to be overly bright, just adequate and equalized around the performer(s) and direct overhead lights should be avoided, it may look fine on the video itself, but they will wash out the colors once in the Studio tracking.

Each camera you add will impact the tracking fps speed by approx, .3 with a higher end graphics card, possibly more on lower end cards, I have a GTX 970 FTW and each cam adds .3 to the processing speed as a comparison, just something to be aware of.

If you are into modification of a Move to be lighter for head use, I show a post for the gloves I made and the same process can be used to attach to a headband.
Post is here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9665

You are going to have additional clean-up anyway in post, but the tracking should be fairly consistent throughout the capture if done with consistency each session.

Good Luck with your projects!

PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 11:28 am 

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2017 2:24 pm
Posts: 6
Thanks a lot, I appreciate the tips. I will experiment with and without motion controllers on the head. Your gloves are certainly a good idea, that way you dont have to hold the controllers all the time.

I will start with this next year since I have to finish the coding first before I can redo the animations, but I'm looking forward to it

PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:46 pm 

Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:34 pm
Posts: 2214
Location: Los Angeles
Oh, yeah, Snapz brought up a good point. The Move controller does need to be fixed firmly to the head. The hard hat I use has an adjustable head band, which locks it firmly to the head. I also have a chin strap but I don't rely on it because it's 'stretchy'. It's just there for a little more stability and I didn't want a non-stretching strap the 'locked' my jaw shut.

I haven't used a GoPro strap but the same rules apply.

FYI, the controller doesn't necessarily need to be centered over the head since all it records is rotation, not position. It just needs to be attached above the neck.

Also, the same is true if you use Move for wrist rotations. If you hold the Move, it needs to be gripped firmly--don't let it roll or flop around inside your grip, or it will cannot record the wrist rotation accurately. This may take some practice to make it look natural but it's really not that hard once you understand it.

Alternatively, you can attach the Move (or just its guts) to the back of a glove. Just be sure it's attached firmly and not able to bounce or flop. A velcro strap can work well for this. I also suggest putting a dense foam pad under the Move for added stability. (I have a small dense foam pad on the top of the hard hat under the Move--this helps keeps it properly aligned and prevents it from 'rocking' against the hard surface.)

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