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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 6:00 am 

Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2017 6:33 am
Posts: 6
I have a Maglite torch, but the new models have an LED as their bulb. This actually flashes on and off really quicky and when you're moving it around it doesn't give great results. So I improvised a Move Controller by using an Orange Table-tennis ball blue-tacked onto the top of my torch. I put a thin roll of bluetack around the inside edge of the top of the torch (there's a lip between the top of the torch and the lens), and then stuck the ball on top. It means the light shines through into the ball, and when it comes to tracking it gives me perfect results! For some reason the orange table-tennis ball comes up as yellow. But you can change the tracking color in the calibration options. It's a lot cheaper than buying a move controller :)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 11:02 pm 

Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2018 10:58 pm
Posts: 1
ianormy wrote:
I have a Maglite torch, but the new models have an LED as their bulb. This actually flashes on and off really quicky and when you're moving it around it doesn't give great results. So I improvised a Move Controller by using an Orange Table-tennis ball blue-tacked onto the top of my torch. I put a thin roll of bluetack around the inside edge of the top of the torch (there's a lip between the top of the torch and the lens), and then stuck the ball on top. It means the light shines through into the ball, and when it comes to tracking it gives me perfect results! For some reason the orange table-tennis ball comes up as yellow. But you can change the tracking color in the calibration options. It's a lot cheaper than buying a move controller :)


Thanks for the tip, ianormy. You gave me some ideas to create my own motion controller using Maglites.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 6:32 am 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 871
Location: Florida USA
...

I have found the new style LED mag lites that show flashing in the iPi view ports do not track with the same minimal misdetects as a solid light in the view port will achieve, even if the system spits out a "Perfect" result.

Although iPi suggests up to 10% misdetects will work, and may show as "Perfect", the achievable amount is much less, below 1% in all cameras without any occluded line of sight to the marker throughout this process.

The ping pong ball extender to encapsulate the glow of the light has been described before in this forum, along with another tip to affix the light used to a 3 ft. (1 m), or longer dowel or 1/2 pvc pipe, (depending on the size of the capture volume), to enable the user to stay more stationary while reaching out to perform the light motions to stop the body from occluding the light and achieving much lower % of misdetects, be sure the dowel, or body of the light doesn't occlude the light when on the floor, as this is the most important point for all the cameras to see the light unoccluded.

Even when using a larger capture volume, the calibration track used for the light marker doesn't need to be huge, if you cover a 9 x 9 ft. (3 x 3 m) to 12 x 12 ft. (4 x 4 m) area, the calibration should work out fine, as a floor plane is flat, the main thing is to set cam 1 at the correct measured real world height off the ground, the rest will self adjust and don't need to be manually adjusted after that and if done correctly should fall well within the limits for acceptable calibration.

If cameras show way out of position to where they are in the view port video for tracking, (and they haven't been touched since calibrating), then something didn't go right in the calibration process, as it is basically an automatic process by the program for detecting the light and setting the camera positions in scene, (cam 1 height setting is manual), if this happens you will need to re-calibrate and this can be done at any time, as long as the recorded video was made before any cameras were moved, or extremely adjusted.

Best to perform a calibration before and after a full recording session, just as a back up in-case of any adverse results from the beginning calibration file.

Also, best to leave the lights on in the area and select the extra darkening setting in the recorder when performing the calibration procedure, though if you don't use the auto-gain setting on, you will need to reset the camera properties for regular recording after, I personally never use auto-gain on and set my cameras manually for gain and exposure.

The light tracking square in the Studio view port when calibrating shouldn't jump off the light at all, if it does this a lot, it will affect the misdetect % per camera, so best to try to stop this from occurring from highly reflective surfaces, or any other bright white objects in the line of the light marker movement, I use a white light, never tried changing the color as it can be done now, this may help in some circumstances where a white light isn't optimal to use.

Just some other calibration tips to go along with the ping pong ball extender tip that should help calibration accuracy, as this is the most important step for tracking accuracy.

...


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 6:22 pm 

Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:40 pm
Posts: 6
Location: Texas
Great tips you have there, thanks for sharing it. I will try to see if that move will work on my end.


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