Hi to everybody,
I am using a WIN 10 PC,
when I try to calibrate tje PS Move they simply do not calibrate.
They enter the process but never end whether i move the controller in ALL positions or not.
Does anybody has got the same issue?

I also have serious drift problems: 90° in 3 minutes of records... it ih really har to fix such a problem.
I noticed that many have the same problem but, so far, nobody got a solution...am I right?

Thanks

Hi
Most probably, you have newer PS Moves which lack magnetometer chip. The latest version of iPi Recorder calibrates these devices, but without magentic calibration. You should be prompted with a message like It seems your PS Move does not provide magnetometer data. Press PS button to skip magnetometer calibration. soon after you've started to rotate PS Move. Then press the PS Button to finish calibration.
Unfortunately, without a magnetometer, PS Move data suffer much from drifting issues. Especially, when doing fast rotations.

Unfortunately I've bought them a month ago, so probably they lack of Magnetometer...
but the software does not recognize it. I don't get any message, it always states something like " turn the controller in all the positions even upsidedown"...
I never overpass this step.

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You would want the CECH-ZCM1U Model to be sure it has the magnetometer, there are many available on eBay, but I am not sure where you are located to get them shipped.

Look on the back label, top right corner to see which model you have and you can most likely search them on the net and see what internal components they have, some sites also show break down schematics.

I have never used the ones without the magnetometer to comment on their accuracy, or set up procedure.

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@research
Ensure you have the latest release of iPi Recorder which is 3.2.11.53 at the moment.
If you actually cannot skip the magnetometer calibration with the latest release, then please install this special version. It does verbose logging of motion controller data during the calibration.

• Open the Trace window (button in the top-right corner), select Verbose for log level.
• Run the calibration and cancel it on the magnetometer step after rotating PS Move for several seconds.
• Save the log from the Trace window and post it here or send to our tech support email.

Unfortunately, new PS Move have the same model numbers :( It seems the model numbers only indicate the region of sale (last letter 'U' for USA, 'E' for Europe etc.) However, the back label layout differs between old and new models which still allow to distinguish them. On this photo the old controller is on the left, and the new controller is on the right.

I suppose that (at least) most PS Moves sold for PS4 (with PS4 logo on the package) are without a magnetometer. So better to get PS3-branded PS Moves.

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Yes correct, the U or E does stand for geographic area for the original product distribution areas, I was guessing the OP was in the US, but by now I am sure there are used ones available all over the world, so the U & E is probably out-dated a bit anyway depending on how and where they were bought used.

The above post referred to the "G" model, which I believe doesn't contain the magnetometer chip at all.

To avoid any data drifting issues, I would probably just get the models with the magnetometer, so you don't have the worries with poor data or drifting, they are pretty accurate and calibrate easily with iPis Win 10 driver update recently, poor data is still less useful, if at all, even if you do get those to calibrate, IMO.

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I'm all set with the 'old' PS Move controllers but I was just wondering, is there an alternative replacement device you guys are eyeing for future use? Just curious since you're looking at some of the newer Logitech cameras as potential PS Eye replacements.

Thanks for any info.

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Ok, got it.
I will try your suggestions....

But basically the only solution is to buy used ones, hoping they were produced earlier than 2013 or similar (tecnically for ps3) ...
not easy when one buys through internet... but at least I know it is not my fault if controllers get crazy after a while....

I just wonder how can they work with the Play Station videogames...
I mean, I guess they have the same problem!

I suggest you to add to the documentation a warning about this,
so that new entries pay attention to what they buy.

PS4 Move controllers are useless for takes longer than 50 seconds.

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Another reliable way to check that they are older models is that the Manufacturers Product Number (MPN) on the rear labels bar code will start with a 1 (like 113 or 130) to signify a first run batching.

The same code starting with a 2 (like 200 or 220) should also contain the magnetometer.

If this number starts with a 3 or a 4, it's very possible NOT to contain the magnetometer, as shown in the photo Maslov posted where the right Move MPN started with a 4.

Try to buy from a seller that has a pair available, (with lower MPN), but if can't find a good price for a dual purchase, just be sure each single Move has the above lower number below the bar code. They weren't sold as pairs originally, so the numbers don't, and won't be consecutive, just as long as lower and within the same batching (each having a 1 or 2 to maintain same batching would probably be best).

If the seller doesn't show a picture of the label, either request this information through email contact, or don't buy them, some post this number right in their listings.

I have 8 Moves, one set in the MPN 1 batch and 3 sets in the 2 MPN batch and all work and calibrate perfectly, I also bought them off sellers that had pairs available, better chance the original purchase was made at, or close to the same time when they used them with their own PS3 console, if sold by original purchaser, this isn't always possible, especially if bought through eBay or Amazon, so check those numbers carefully and if possible, get them to snap a pic and post or send it, so you know you get the model they advertised to you.

Good suggestion to include this in the iPi Docs where it stands out for newer users, I was unaware until recently that the magnetometer in newer Moves has been deprecated and that the models should be for PS3 only.

One other tip, once you get the model sorted out, is to mark an L and R on each controller, this makes it much easier to keep them situated during set up and recording.
If you do see them acting weird in Studio, it could be that the hands are switched, so try changing that first.

Also, you can buy and replace the battery in the Moves easily, if that becomes an issue, they are sold all over the internet now.

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We did not know that either until we got the first complaint to tech support about non-calibrating PS Move a couple of months ago. The earliest report we've found on the Internet on PS Move not producing magnetometer data is dated by the fall of 2016. So I guess actually some earlier PS Moves branded for PS4 do have magnetometer.
Maybe your idea about the bar code series is the right way to judge whether a specific device has magnetometer or not.