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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 2:51 pm 

Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:20 pm
Posts: 5
Hi Snapz,
Attachment:
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http://www.blackrhino.org.uk/fhg/setup/setup.html

So this is me trying to replicate your suggestions. My PC as you can see in the image is in the server box on my right (next to the door on my diagram) I am lucky enough to have enough USB ports and the right number of buses to support all 6 cameras on the single machine.

So in this shot mapped to your diagram:

A = Camera 3
B = Camera 5
C = Camera 2
D = Camera 4
E = Camera 1
F = Camera 6

The camera's are mounted on small square wooden panels with velcro pads and these are then screwed on to wooden rods which are suspended from nails on the beams of the garage. So I have multiple holes (like a belt) so I can increase/decrease the height by simply using a different hole. C/D are mounted on rods cut at a 40 degree angle to give me more angle for looking down.

I need to move the light over to take it out of camera 2's view or move it along the beam until it is past the light. I also need to reduce the clutter for camera B and F isn't 2.4m yet (it got to late for drilling holes putting nails in) but yeah so this is as far as I have now got with the setup today.

Thanks,
Simon


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 3:56 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 871
Location: Florida USA
...

Yes, you have the right idea as I laid it out seems to look ok, once all cam are positioned to height.

I try to make all my cams view as horizontal as possible when standing on my center mark, I don't think it matters if they aren't so much, I am just OCD that way :)

Using a small block, or can on the floor center mark will help align the cams better using the new view port grid to put the grid center at the hips of the performer.

It's hard to tell, but cam A, B and E should be at a small arc, B and E ahead of A of course, but only by a foot or so, this helps keep the image roughly the same size in each of those cams, again, it may not matter too much, but it will also give a little wrap view of the side of the body better, also as I see it better, you can raise cam B higher and let it look down more to help avoid obstacles if needed, those were just rough heights I stated, nothing has to be set in stone, as long as it works.

You can drag and drop the cam view ports to make A-cam 1, B-cam 2 and so on in a circle, again, not sure it matters, just what iPi recommends and I do too.

All in all, it looks like you have a fair amount of performance room for the area, the 2 rear cams don't absolutely need to see arms raised, because the others will track them fine I am sure. Since you have open rafters, you can move cam C and D up as high as possible, as they mostly look straight down, 2.4 m is just if you had drywall, or hard ceiling to stop you, this will give more view for those cameras.

Looks like you will need a bit more frontal light, I guess you know that, rest look like could be hung a bit higher too, you could also shield them to just shine down and on the sheet, the light will reflect enough during recording, but you want to avoid the direct light hazing the camera lens once it is in the Studio, or making a hand/arm disappear in the light when crosses it, this will occur with too much direct light to a camera lens, even if you have some sort of filter in front of the light. Not sure you have the height overhead for a light there, could wash the top of head and shoulders if used and cause tracking issues, would be a trial and error test I guess. If performer (you) still seem to dark after shielding the lights, maybe an LED rope light on the rafters would give enough light just over the performance area, don't need it bright, just enough to distinguish the colors worn for the cameras to pick out better.

I think you had 2 more sheets to split the computer area to drop when you start recording, it would probably help, just get a couple small squeeze clamps to hold them open when need to access the computer and easily drop them when recording, but maybe you were thinking of doing that anyway.

How you mount the cams is up to you, just be sure they won't ever move during recording after calibrated, rule of thumb is to always do a second calibration when finished an entire session, just to have a just-in-case back up cal file.

I know this was just a test to show the set up, but I guess you know to refrain from wearing shorts when recording, even if the same color as your legs, wearing a darker colored pants and light material solid color gloves will help the legs/hands and arms stay in tracking better, I guess you will use Move controllers in the hands when recording also? that is recommended for best final results.

Looking good so far though, good job! I believe you shouldn't have many issues with performing some mild actions in that space once ready to go.

Post again when you get it all set up and recording and let us know how it's going.

...


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