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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:46 am 

Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:23 am
Posts: 9
Hi, I was hoping to get some answers on a few questions:


1. Are the tilt angles of the cameras important, as long as the marked capture volume fits inside the frame? Do all the cameras need to be at the same angle, or can some be looking more down on the subject while some are more level? I saw an example posted on the forums where someone had great success using a hexagon-shaped setup where all the cameras appeared to be at the same height, but the whole thing was in French so I couldn't get the theory behind it.

2. Does it matter that during calibration (again, six-cameras in full-circle) the mini maglite isn't visible in all cameras at once? (The body of the person holding the light blocks it for some cameras, while it remains visible in others.)

3. Can anyone give me an example of a good scale for six camera scene setup? (i.e. The height of the camera and the distance between two cameras on opposite sides of the circle/hexagon) I have a medium sized studio space to work with.

4. So far I have had moderate success with leg tracking, but real problems with arm tracking -- I have my actor in a long sleeved shirt with a different contrasting t-shirt over the top, and their shoes, pants, overshirt and undershirt are all different colors. Are there any factors to be aware of that effect arms more than legs, which I may be missing? (Shoulder tracking on/off doesn't seem to help.)

5. My six PS3 Eyes, which were all purchased around the same time, do not all seem to have the same white balance (i.e. some look "warmer" than others). Will this create problems, and is there a remedy?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 11:29 am 

Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:34 pm
Posts: 2423
Location: Los Angeles
montanamocap wrote:
Are the tilt angles of the cameras important, as long as the marked capture volume fits inside the frame? Do all the cameras need to be at the same angle, or can some be looking more down on the subject while some are more level?

Angle is important but the software will solve this for you automatically. In general, the only info you need is the height of one camera and the FOV of all cameras. (For PS3 Eye, the FOV is the default value of 70 so you don't need to change this.)

Staggering the height is a good idea. This helps the software distinguish the cameras better when using Auto Detect and it can give the software a broader view of the subject it's tracking. My cameras range from about 4 to 10 feet in height. Naturally, you may be limited by the space you're shooting in and have to make reasonable adjustments. The key is to experiment and learn what works best for you and your environment.

Note: I use Auto Detect exclusively; this feature always places my cameras right on spot with correct angles. However, a few users have reported problems and will place the cameras manually. Manually placing the cameras requires complete documentation of your environment, and if anything changes (like a camera gets bumped,) you will need to re-document. My recommendation is to figure out why Auto Detect isn't working in your case and eliminate the problem. Having Auto Detect available is totally worth it as it means you can get to tracking a lot sooner.

Quote:
2. Does it matter that during calibration (again, six-cameras in full-circle) the mini maglite isn't visible in all cameras at once? (The body of the person holding the light blocks it for some cameras, while it remains visible in others.)

It's okay if it disappears briefly but you should try to avoid occluding the light as much as possible. Stagger the camera heights and try keep aware of what they see. You may need to crouch down and keep your head low when when tapping the ground with the Maglite. That said, if at least three cameras have a clear view of the light, the software should technically be able to solve where that point it.

Quote:
3. Can anyone give me an example of a good scale for six camera scene setup? (i.e. The height of the camera and the distance between two cameras on opposite sides of the circle/hexagon) I have a medium sized studio space to work with.

Arrange them so you have a much performance space as possible, while maintaining some overlap between the cameras. BTW, in case you're not aware of this feature, you can double-click a camera view to fill the screen. This makes is easier to see from across the room what any camera is seeing while you are placing and adjusting it.

Quote:
4. So far I have had moderate success with leg tracking, but real problems with arm tracking..

Not sure in your case.

Could be a shirt color/contrast issue. Typically, you should wear a black short sleeved T over a colored long sleeved shirt. This eliminates self shadowing on the torso which can cause tracking problems. The color of the long sleeved shirt should contrast the background and not confuse iPi with your skin color. Solid green or red is recommended (I usually use red because I shoot in a green space, but I also have a green shirt available if I need it in a different environment.)

Sometimes adjusting the height of the actor to a little taller or shorter may help. This issue may be that if you're arms or legs are proportionately longer or shorter that the iPi rig, it may have some collision issues during tracking.

Quote:
5. My six PS3 Eyes, which were all purchased around the same time, do not all seem to have the same white balance (i.e. some look "warmer" than others). Will this create problems, and is there a remedy?

Should be okay unless they are really way off (i.e., colors are completely different between cameras.) It's probably more important that the luminance is more closely matched.

Hope this is helpful.

G.

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